Cast your mind back to the early 2000s. ‘Dilemma’ by Nelly and Kelly ruled the airwaves, size-zero celebrities dominated magazine covers and gourmand fragrances were everywhere. No dressing table was complete without ‘Fantasy’ by Britney Spears, ‘Angel’ by Thierry Mugler or Anna Sui ‘Sui Dreams’ – who could forget the kitsch handbag-shaped bottle? Two decades on, sugary scents are on fragrance aficionados’ wish lists again, but this time even the most achingly high-end fragrance houses are clamouring to satisfy our sweet tooth.
Fashion editor favourite Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s latest launch, ‘Kurky’, £185 / $225, muddles ripe peach and raspberry with creamy vanilla for a comforting tutti-frutti offering, while Miller Harris’ ‘Legato’, £180 / $245, offers a modern take on a vanilla gourmand, with notes of cherry, sandalwood and musk.
“Guilt-free” gourmands
While citing trends as cyclical could be enough to explain why we’re spritzing gourmand fragrances like it’s 2003, scent experts are linking the demand for edible scents to the rise of weight-loss medications such as Ozempic, Mounjaro and Wegovy.
The last time thin was in (à la early 2000s socialites Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, Nicole Richie and Mischa Barton), vanilla, caramel and pumpkin dominated the fragrance space, with JLo’s iconic ‘Glow’ perfume a staple on bestseller lists, and we’re seeing this mirrored now, with sweet scents sold as guilt-free pleasures. During times when indulgence is tightly policed, dessert-inspired scents offer a sensory loophole: comfort and indulgence without the “guilt”.
© Le Monde GourmandScented stand-ins
There’s serious science behind changes in our olfactory preferences, explains aesthetics expert Dr. Priya Verma: “If someone is consuming less sugar, their brain might seek other ways to satisfy that craving. That could explain the shift toward sweet perfumes. In many cases, its scent is a stand-in for dessert.”
Fragrance experts agree. “There’s been a huge push for perfumes that smell good enough to eat,” says Jonnie Swarbrick, creative director at luxury perfume house Fragrance Du Bois. “Customers are reaching for notes such as praline, marshmallow, pistachio and chocolate. They want warmth, comfort – and maybe a little indulgence.” But it’s not just about preference. There are physiological reasons why richer, sweeter perfumes might be more appealing to people using weight-loss drugs.
© Getty Images“Rapid weight loss can lead to drier skin,” explains dermatologist Dr. Miriam Rehbein. “Dry skin doesn’t hold onto scent as well. Perfumes with denser notes – such as caramel and vanilla – tend to last longer and create a more enveloping experience.”
Mood boost
The mini dose of dopamine delivered by sweet scents could also be behind the shift in our olfactory desires, tapping into our need for optimism during dark times. Maison Francis Kurkdjian calls ‘Kurky’ “an invisible accessory that sparks happiness and enhances confidence”, while Selena Gomez’s first foray into fragrance via her beauty brand Rare Beauty, taps into cosy, comforting vibes too. ‘Rare Eau de Parfum’, £71 / $75, blends creamy caramel and pistachio with rich vanilla and sandalwood, for a hyper-sensory, feel-good fragrance that captures the comforting mood of autumn, “like a PSL for your pulse points”, says Selena.
© @selenagomez“We are looking for moments of joy and the continued rise of treat culture,” says MarieAnna Ferdinand, executive vice president of fragrance development at sweet scent brand Le Monde Gourmand. “This is in response to the stressors of everyday life. One way to treat yourself daily is through your fragrance and beauty ritual, while also tapping into a nostalgia of happier times, such as childhood. Many gourmand scents do just that.”
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