One of the first things you’re taught when studying fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins is not to fangirl when speaking to notable industry figures.
Two years ago, I was walking down Portobello Road on my daily lunchtime stroll when I spotted Bay Garnett rifling through the rails outside Last Place On Earth – my local vintage haunt.
I immediately hung up the phone on my mother and legged it over to her – any inkling of what my tutor said about fangirling evaporating from my mind.
I first came to know Bay’s work from Vogue’s ‘Inside The Wardrobe’ YouTube series, when fashion lovers could glimpse inside the homes of their favourite arbiters of style. Bay’s wardrobe was gloriously thrifty – a kaleidoscopic mish-mash of colours, textures and prints with labels spanning Etam to vintage Marc Jacobs.
Bay graciously listened as I blurted out my admiration for her work and how it inspired my total obsession with thrifting – now a core part of my career. We spoke about that Chloé banana top worn by Kate Moss, her work with Oxfam, and her interviews with fellow British Vogue editors Julia Hobbs and Naomi Smart. Then, to my amazement, she invited me to an event she was hosting later that month – cue fashion student euphoria.
Widely known as The Queen of Thrift, Bay has long pioneered the notion that preloved reigns supreme. A stylist, author and editor whose work includes iconic Vogue shoots working alongside 90s supermodels to co-founding Cheap Date magazine (with contributors including Anita Pallenberg, Chloë Sevigny, Liv Tyler and Debbie Harry), she has consistently championed vintage fashion as both a creative force and a sustainable solution, reshaping how the industry views secondhand style.
Earlier this year, Bay’s work secured her the Icon Hall of Fame Award at the Industry Fashion People, Planet and Purpose Awards, following the highly anticipated release of her first book, Style and Substance: Why What We Wear Matters in 2023.
We caught up with Bay at her exclusive Style to Sell Studio at Westfield’s Good Festival to learn her self-styling secrets – from glam-rock accessories to her signature staples and everything in between.
How would you describe that feeling of finding the ultimate vintage gem when you are thrifting?
It’s just an amazing feeling. Sometimes you want that buzz so you can kid yourself into feeling it, but when you really get that buzz, that’s when you know that it’s the real thing. It doesn’t happen that often, but I love it.
Would you describe yourself as an instinctive dresser?
Yes, I’m pretty instinctive. My style can go from a bit gothic to a bit preppy, but it’s all in the same sort of framework of my style. Instinctive but within my own comfort zone.
And you often share strangers’ outfits that you like on Instagram. What kind of things grab your attention?
It can be anything. Something that stands out – some that is individual. It might not be for other people, but there’s just something about it. It’s got a personal touch. It could even be someone with extremely long hair – when somebody is doing something to stand out, that’s what I think is interesting.
What outfit do you feel most confident in?
I love my long black skirts – the silhouette is a signature. I do love a very classic cashmere rollneck. Gold necklaces, bracelets, maybe a belt. Simple, classic, but it feels like me. I like feeling like me – pared back with an accessories flair.
What are your thoughts on the quiet luxury trend?
I think quiet luxury can look very stylish on people. I get it. For me, I like the richness of clothes. I like the storytelling of clothes. I like the fun of clothes. Quiet luxury can look stylish, but other times it can look a bit like a cop-out. We can all ‘do’ a leather belt with a shirt by The Row or a cashmere sweater, well, we can’t all do that exactly, but that look, but I think it can be quite boring.
If you could shop at one vintage haunt for the rest of your life, which one do you think you would choose?
Portobello Market on a Friday.
Vintage shop, charity shop, flea market, or auction?
Not auctions. Markets or charity shops. I like vintage shops, but I’ve always done charity shops
Who are your fashion icons or muses, and how do they kind of inspire and influence your style?
Anita Pallenberg. She’s a friend of mine. She’s probably the biggest influence on my style. We went thrifting together – she’s a brilliant stylist. Chloë Sevigny as well. Charlotte Tilbury is another friend of mine, she’s very stylish when it comes to accessorising. Kate Moss, too. I love the 1970s – Deborah Harry, Jane Birkin – I go for the more relaxed style. Dressy isn’t so me.
Accessories can make or break an outfit. What are your staple accessories and how do you use them to elevate and look?
I have got staple accessories – I wear my gold necklaces with charms because if you’re wearing a rollneck or a shirt, it just adds a signature to something. Your jewellery can really say ‘I’m in the room.’ I also love a classic belt, like a Western belt. I love a Concho belt. I like a pirate-style belt, a Seventies belt – I wear a lot of belts. I’ve collected them for years.
What’s your strategy for creating a memorable evening look?
For me, it’s pretty much the same as the day to be honest. I always want to look like me, I might even keep the same black vest on but I’ll change my jacket or change my shoes. I never wear dresses. I like putting things together. I’d put on a silk lamé jacket with a 1039s buckled floral belt and a pair of silver shoes. I like to piece things together from day to night. Maybe a black blazer like my Victoriana Marc Jacobs jacket. A strong blazer or jacket that says nighttime. I like the effortlessness of it.
The Westfield Good Festival has returned for its third edition, bringing a vibrant programme of free workshops, masterclasses, and eco-conscious experiences to Westfield London (16-18 May) and Westfield Stratford City (23-25 May). The event comes as Westfield’s How We Shop research shows 57% of Gen Z and millennials are planning to dedicate the majority of their clothing spend on pre-loved items in the near future. Bay Garnett hosted the Style to Sell Studio at Westfield London on Saturday 17 May, advising shoppers on how best to make a sale from unwanted garments.
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