From Demna to Jonathan Anderson: The designer debuts to know for SS26

Earlier this year, fashion’s worst-kept secret was confirmed – Jonathan Anderson is Dior’s new creative director. 

The Northern Irish designer will unveil his first womenswear ready-to-wear collection for the house during Paris Fashion Week this October, following his debut with Dior menswear on June 27.

Anderson steps into the role previously held by Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who served as artistic director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories since 2016. Her tenure was marked by a strong emphasis on feminism and the celebration of female creativity, themes that became synonymous with her vision for the brand. 

Anderson joins the brand from Spanish label Loewe, where he executed iconic designs from the Puzzle Bag to the Wellipet Clogs.

Matthieu Blazy is set to debut his first collection for Chanel this season, having left Bottega Veneta to join the prolific French house.

Born in Paris in 1984, Blazy began his career as a men’s designer for Raf Simons, before joining Maison Margiela to take charge of the Artisanal line (haute couture) and the ready-to-wear collections. In 2014, he joined Phoebe Philo at Celine as women’s senior designer, before joining Raf Simons at Calvin Klein from 2016 to 2019 as design director of ready-to-wear. In 2021, he assumed the role of creative director at Bottega Veneta, a role which now belongs to Louise Trotter.

During his tenure, the brand witnessed a stunning evolution, enlisting the help of style-savvy stars such as Jacob Elordi and Zendaya to bring its buttery leather designs to a mainstream audience.

Louise Trotter is taking the reigns at Bottega Veneta for SS26. The creative is a British fashion designer renowned for her refined, understated approach to luxury. 

Previously, she served as Carven’s creative director, joining the brand in February 2023. She helped to reinvigorate the brand with her texture-focused designs after its years-long hiatus. 

Her moodboards often incorporate sleek, timeless silhouettes which ooze wearability, in addition to subtly feminine pastel colourways, silk and organza textures that offer up romantic sensibilities and contemporary colourblocking. Hence, we can expect to see Trotter incorporate the aforementioned into her designs for Bottega.

Demna’s move to Gucci is perhaps the most controversial of the season. The Georgian fashion designer previously held the title of creative director at Balenciaga since 2015, carving out a much-debated tenure at the Spanish house.

Demna’s spell at Balenciaga redefined modern luxury with a subversive edge. His ability to merge the avant-garde with pop culture – think sock trainers, logo hoodies, and the infamous Ikea-inspired bag – has created a cult-like following, including figures such as Kim Kardashian and Romeo Beckham.

A clear contrast to Gucci’s signature opulence and heritage style, Demna’s vision for the Kering-owned brand is set to shake up the industry.  

Following Donatella’s departure, Dario Vitale will take the reins at Versace for spring/summer 2026 – marking the first time a designer outside the Versace family will helm the house.

Vitale, a key figure during his time at Miu Miu, has steadily built his reputation since joining the Milanese house in 2010 (he left in January). Vitale’s fashion journey began after graduating from Istituto Marangoni in 2006. He commenced his career at Bottega Veneta before joining Miu Miu in July 2010. Over 14 years at Miu Miu, he advanced to design director for ready-to-wear and brand image design director, playing a pivotal role in the brand’s growth, with retail sales surging by 93 per cent in 2024.

This season, Glenn Martens will debut his first collection as creative director of Maison Margiela – marking a bold new chapter for the avant-garde house. Martins will step into the role formerly held by John Galliano.

Alongside his work at Margiela, the Belgian designer will continue leading Diesel, an understandable decision given both labels sit under OTB’s fashion empire.

Martens has worked magic at Diesel since 2020, reviving the Y2K denim titan with viral runway moments and subversive collections. Many belive that his avant-garde touch will translate perfectly to Margiela.

Area debuted its SS26 collection during New York Fashion Week, executed under the watchful eye of new creative director Nicholas Aburn. The first designer debut to show on the list, the creative offered up swathes of dreamy denim, dark colourways and of course, the brand’s signature crystal embellishment detailing.

The designer previously held positions at Tom Ford, Alexander Wang and Balenciaga.

Pierpaolo Piccioli, celebrated for his romantic, boundary-pushing work at Valentino, takes the helm at Balenciaga, marking one of SS26’s most anticipated debuts. Known for his ability to fuse shocking hues with modern silhouettes, the designer has successfully yielded a celebrity backing, with Florence Pugh and Anne Hathaway among his VIP clients.

His penchant for theatricality, combined with a love for the unexpected palettes, leans neatly into Balenciaga’s subversive DNA carved out by Demna.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the former design duo behind Proenza Schouler will be taking the reins from Jonathan Anderson at Loewe for SS26. Known for modern, art-infused designs that feel effortlessly cool, McCollough and Hernandez are set to infuse the heritage Spanish house with fresh energy, balancing its artisanal roots with kitsch flair – executed by Anderson via sell-out accessories and statement knitwear. 

Shortly after Celine announced the departure of former creative director Hedi Slimane, a new successor was named in time for SS26. The brand announced the appointment of Michael Rider as its new artistic director, taking the reins from Slimane who had worked at the house for seven years.

Previously creative director at Ralph Lauren until May 2024, the designer started his fashion career at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière, subsequently spending a decade with Celine during Phoebe Philo‘s tenure as design director.

Mark Thomas steps into Carven for SS26, in a bid to modernise the French house while honouring its playful, Parisian heritage. Taking over from Louise Trotter, the seasoned designer is set to infuse the brand with new visual energy.

A Central Saint Martins graduate, Thomas’ career spans prestigious houses, including Givenchy and Joseph, where he led menswear under the creative guidance of Louise Trotter. From 2017 to 2019, he served as creative director at Helmut Lang, later reuniting with Trotter at Lacoste.