This morning, as I traced my eyeliner in the exact same way I have for 25 years, I noticed something. My once effortless, five-second wing, perfected through decades of practice, was taking a little longer to construct. Q-tips have entered the equation, sharpening edges and erasing frayed flicks and I found myself lifting the skin at the corners of my eyes to create a smoother surface. Then it hit me; my artistry wasn’t failing, age was sabotaging the canvas. Which led me to wonder, can you still rock a retro makeup look when you, yourself, have become retro?
The art of ageless beauty
I’ve always been a hearty proponent of age dysmorphia (I will forever be 31 in my head), especially when it comes to makeup. Beauty with a point of view, especially on those fabulous octogenarians sporting pink hair or the die-hard devotees of electric blue eyeshadow (RIP Barbara Cartland) will always get my seal of approval, but as my devotion to a cat eye feels less intentional these days, it’s left me at a crossroads of whether to go bolder or lose the flick and lashings of mascara altogether?
While my eye makeup dilemmas continue, my base has already begun to evolve. Creamier textures, luminous skin tints and dewy finishes have quietly replaced the heavier matte formulas of my past (thank you Hourglass Illusion ‘Luminous Glow Foundation’, £58 / $80.04, and Lisa Eldridge ‘Seamless Skin Enhancing Tint’, £37 / $52)
Brands such as Refy, Merit and Westman Atelier’s dreamy, creamy formulas, which serve as Gen Z catnip, also translate beautifully onto older faces, and yet I’m simply not ready to fully commit to the ‘no makeup makeup’ aesthetic. So, I turned to makeup maestro Lan Nguyen-Grealis for advice.
Advice for makeup in midlife
1. Less is more
“Women should definitely consider upgrading makeup as skin texture changes over time,” says Lan. “It’s about creating radiance and a smooth finish; less is definitely more.”
2. Up your skin prep
According to Lan, upping your skin prep before applying your makeup is key, something I’ve cottoned onto as my skin has naturally become drier. She recommends swapping heavy, matte foundations for lighter alternatives such as BB or CC creams, using a mattifying primer for oily areas and incorporating a brightening highlighter to enhance glow.
3. Layering is key
“Layer your foundation and add concealer only where needed,” she explains. “This avoids caking and creates a more natural, skin-like finish. Small adjustments – such as switching to creamier tints – can add youthfulness without overhauling your entire routine.”
© Getty ImagesEye-opening adjustments
As for my failing feline flick? Lan suggests a softer approach. “Keep liquid eyeliner tight to the lash-line, then use a kohl pencil at the outer corners, smudging it slightly to soften the edges. This will help to lift the eyes without looking too harsh,” she says. “Define the eyes with a long-lasting eyeshadow first, then add liner. And for a little lift, a few individual lashes at the outer corners can work wonders – no need for heavy mascara.”
Wise words that I will aim to implement in a bid to eke out my signature look for the next few decades to come (steady hand permitting).
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