We’d only just stepped aboard our sparkling new river ship, SS Emilie, in Vienna on a gloriously warm July afternoon and, already, the talk was of water levels.
From where I sat, nursing a cooling Aperol spritz on one of the plush sunbeds lined up neatly across the top deck, the River Danube sparkled defiantly under the blazing rays of the afternoon sun.
However, central Europe was baking in a heatwave that had left this waterway at record low levels and, while the stretch we were due to sail on through Austria and Germany was not the worst affected, parts were still unnavigable.
What happens when the water levels run low
It wasn’t a huge surprise when the captain told us that low waters meant we would not be able to sail to the historic German cities of Regensburg or Nuremberg, which our cruise was due to visit. Everyone was resigned to the news but, like me, were impressed at how quickly the team swung into action with an amended schedule that retained some of our original activities while bringing in new ones, too.
© Getty Images/Westend61A new itinerary was sent out. Regensburg still featured, but was now a lengthy drive away as we were moored at the riverside town of Vilshofen – some 66 miles distant. Yet for this and a hastily-introduced day trip to Salzburg, Uniworld gave passengers 30 euros (£25.50) each as a sweetener towards lunch.
Do something different in Salzburg
My husband Geoff and I put our handout to good use in Salzburg, where, as many people know, the Oscar-winning film The Sound of Music was filmed. Here, Julie Andrews famously led her young charges trilling Do-Re-Mi on the steps of the pretty Mirabell Gardens.
© Getty ImagesHaving visited before and ticked off the main sights, we followed our guide into the elevator that sped us to the top of the city’s Mönchsberg Mountain. This viewpoint, with its dramatic outlook over the rooftops to the mountains beyond, proved to be a perfect place to spend our allowance and while away the afternoon in the restaurant with its terraced al fresco bar.
Taking it easy is sometimes a great decision
Two days later, with the prospect of another long coach transfer looming, we decided to duck out of the day-long trip to Regensburg. Instead, we opted to spend the morning relaxing on deck, with a steady supply of refreshments brought to us by the attentive crew.
© Getty Images/Westend61We then explored sleepy Vilshofen on a walking tour that delved into the history of the riverside town and included a visit to a museum (housed in underground vaults) telling the story of its colourful beer brewing history.
A more active alternative came when a group of us pedalled off on a 20-mile cycle ride along the riverside tow path, past carpets of lush meadows sprinkled with cow parsley and through tiny settlements of gingerbread Bavarian homes clustered around tiny churches, their spires echoing with tolling bells.
© Sara MacefiledOn one side of the path, the constant lapping reminded us of the Danube River – whose changing moods had dictated our week. Yet despite the changes, the undeniable and reliable constant was Uniworld’s newest ship.
What it’s like aboard the SS Emilie
With lavish Art Nouveau-styled interiors in ruby red velvets with glistening gold touches inspired by Austrian artist Gustav Klimt, the SS Emilie is a ship that oozes chi-chi glamour.
The marble-draped reception is dominated by a giant portrait of the ship’s namesake Emilie Flöge (Klimt’s muse), while our cabin had a similarly opulent feel with a marblesque ensuite shower and delightful floor-to-ceiling window that transformed into a French balcony at the touch of a button.
Life aboard was relaxed and sociable with 120 of us, made up mainly of North Americans followed by Britons and Australians. Shared tables at mealtimes (though there were also cosy tables for two) proved a good way to strike up friendships as we chatted over four-course feasts of beef carpaccio, pan-seared scallops, grilled fish and tenderloin cuts.
Evenings were generally low-key, though visiting performers raised the tempo a few notches: one night two Broadway-style singers took to the floor, on another a jolly Bavarian oom-pah band roused the audience to sing and clap along, while a party to celebrate Uniworld’s 50th golden anniversary tempted a jolly crowd of revellers on to the dance-floor.
Brushing shoulders with nobility
There was even a chance to mingle with Austrian nobility when we were whisked into the hills for an evening cocktail reception with local Count Carl Philip Clam Martinic who opened his Clam Castle for a private viewing.
After keeping us waiting for 20 minutes, the Count proved to be a softly-spoken amiable sort who made up for his tardiness with tales of growing up at the 12th century fortress and a captivating account of how his grandmother protected the castle from Russian soldiers after the end of the Second World War.
It was a fascinating experience that added sheen to a somewhat unpredictable week. Our cruise may have been dictated by the ebbs and flows of the Danube River, but we’d navigated them with ease and – thanks to SS Emilie – in considerable style.
How to book it: Uniworld offers regular departures of the one-week Vineyards & Palaces Along the Danube sailing between Vienna and Nuremberg in 2027, with stops including Spitz, Passau and Regensburg. From £2,499pp all-inclusive. Includes flights.
Sara was a guest of Uniworld. All stays and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
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