The nightly habits a dermatologist recommends for menopausal skin – and the one ‘myth’ that is actually true

When it comes to skincare, I’ve noticed my friends generally fall into one of two camps: those who follow their night-time routine religiously, and those who collapse into bed without so much as a face wipe – makeup and all.

Which group do you belong to? I hope you’re in the first, because if you’re in the second, I’m afraid I have a bit of a wake-up call: you’re not just neglecting your skin, you’re fast-tracking the ageing process quite unnecessarily.

Following a solid evening routine is more than just a bit of self-care, it is also the most effective way to keep your complexion healthy, glowing and hydrated. 

Did you know that your skin actually “works” overtime while you sleep, making it far more receptive to products? During the night, your skin enters a crucial regeneration phase, meaning a well-thought-out routine is your best ally for waking up fresh-faced, no matter what your age.

To cut through the noise, I caught up with dermatologist Dr Natalia Jiménez, who walked me through the essentials of the perfect evening skincare routine – including for menopausal women, people with sensitive skin and younger women who are wondering if they should start an anti-ageing regime.

We’re often incredibly diligent with our morning skincare, yet the night-time routine can easily fall by the wayside. So, why exactly is it so vital to look after our skin before hitting the hay?

“A night-time skincare routine is absolutely essential. Throughout the day, our skin is under constant fire from external aggressors that can cause real damage if they aren’t properly cleared away. Pollutants, traces of makeup and layers of SPF can all irritate the skin and, over time, speed up the ageing process.

“Late in the day, we’re usually winding down – and importantly, not in the morning rush to get to work – so investing a moment in ourselves by looking after our skin is really beneficial. It’s also the optimum time to apply high-performance anti-ageing actives, such as retinol, along with products designed to support the skin’s natural repair cycle and prevent overnight irritation.”

It’s often said that our skin ‘goes to work’ while we sleep. What exactly is happening beneath the surface?

“It’s when blood flow to the skin increases, making it significantly more receptive to products. If you’ve done a proper double cleanse beforehand, skincare actives in your products can penetrate much deeper. It’s also worth noting that transepidermal water loss (TEWL) peaks during this night-time window.”

Is ‘beauty sleep’ real, or just a myth?

“Getting enough sleep is a genuine beauty treatment in itself. Numerous studies have looked at patients getting insufficient amounts of rest – less than five hours – and they consistently showed more advanced signs of ageing, particularly deeper wrinkles and more noticeable pigmentation around the eyes.”

As an expert, which active ingredients would you say are absolute ‘must-haves’ for a night-time regime?

“For a routine focused on preventing and treating signs of ageing, I’d say retinol (or its derivatives), hydrating heroes (for example hyaluronic acid), peptides to stimulate collagen production and, lastly, adenosine.

What are the ultimate essentials for younger skin?

“For younger, healthy skin that doesn’t have any specific concerns, the real game-changers are antioxidants – Vitamin C and ferulic acid being the big ones – alongside a broad-spectrum SPF. Both are absolutely vital for preventing early sun damage, pigmentation and fine lines.”

What about those with more mature skin?

“For mature complexions, you still need those basics, but it becomes crucial to introduce high-performance actives like retinol and peptides into your evening regime. 

“Hydrating agents like ceramides and hyaluronic acid are also a must – especially for menopausal women. When oestrogen levels drop, the skin naturally becomes much more dehydrated.”

We’re seeing more and more people with sensitive or reactive skin. In those cases, are there any specific formulas we should steer clear of at night?

“There isn’t a specific ‘banned’ list, unless you have a known allergy, but it is vital to tailor the concentrations of the active ingredients you’re using. This is particularly important with retinol and Vitamin C. 

It’s also a great idea to choose night creams or ‘overnight masks’ specifically formulated to soothe potential irritation caused by retinol or the skin’s natural night-time repair cycle.”

As we get older, we naturally start to worry about fine lines and wrinkles. Can a solid skincare routine really help us disguise them or delay their arrival?

“While we can’t stop the clock entirely, we can certainly soften and delay the visible signs of ageing. Good-quality skincare is important, along with a healthy lifestyle and avoiding excessive sun exposure.”

What is a good age to start using products that target the signs of ageing?

“There’s no magic age; it really depends on the individual. I usually suggest starting when you notice those first fine lines appearing or if your skin tone begins to look a little uneven.”

Do you think there’s more awareness of the ‘enemies’ of great skin these days?

“We’re definitely seeing a shift in society toward understanding how important it is to look after your skin. While some things are harder to change, like your stress level or sleep schedule, simple habits like a thorough night-time cleanse and never skipping SPF are becoming much more ‘second nature’ for a lot of people today.”

How do you guide your own patients toward better skin health?

“I always explain to my patients that your skin’s appearance is a mirror of lots of things. In-clinic treatments aren’t enough on their own. A healthy lifestyle is the foundation; being consistent with a simple, effective skincare regime is what truly delivers those long-term results.”

Could you talk us through your own night-time skincare regime?

“My own evening routine usually starts with a double cleanse – I use an oil-based balm first, followed by a gentle water-based cleanser. Then, I apply an eye cream, followed by a facial moisturiser containing retinol – although I always adjust the strength depending on how my skin is feeling. 

“On the nights that I skip the retinol, usually if my skin is feeling a bit parched or flaky, I’ll be sure to use a nourishing cream packed with peptides, hyaluronic acid and ceramides instead.”

About the expert:

Dr Natalia Jiménez is a Specialist in Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology and Laser Treatments. Dr Jiménez is an Attending Dermatologist at Madrid’s Ramón y Cajal University Hospital, and a clinical and aesthetic dermatology consultant at the prestigious Pedro Jaén Group in Madrid. She has also served as a consultant dermatologist for Clinique.