‘Sensitive skin’ is becoming the new normal, with more women experiencing inflammatory conditions like perioral dermatitis (PD). Dermatologists confirm a rise of cases in clinic, and several celebrities (including Hailey Bieber and Amanda Seyfried) have spoken openly about their struggles online. Often, it’s the result of overdoing it: too many actives, too many peels and a habit of over-cleansing. It might seem counterintuitive, then, to turn to K-beauty – often associated with multi-step routines – for a solution.
“If you mention the 10-step K-beauty plan to a Korean person, they’ll have no idea what you’re talking about,” says Dr Christine Hall, K-beauty expert and GP at TakTouk Clinic. “That was an American marketing term used to encourage consumers to buy more.” In reality, many Korean women use far fewer products, selecting formulas based on their skin’s specific needs. That intentional approach, combined with a focus on strengthening and protecting the skin barrier, is more likely to support compromised or reactive skin than overwhelm it.
As is the nature of my job, I’m constantly trialling new launches – and I’m convinced that’s what triggered my first PD flare five years ago. Until then, my skin had generally behaved well, but almost overnight a cluster of red pustules appeared around my nose and mouth. And while a prescription cream and oral antibiotics cleared it within weeks, the condition has resurfaced periodically since (usually when my routine becomes too experimental). Over time, I’ve gravitated towards gentler, barrier-supportive products that help steady my skin rather than stress it – many of which happen to be Korean.
What is perioral dermatitis?
Perioral dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that presents as clusters of small red bumps (known as papules or pustules) around the mouth and nose, and sometimes the eyes. “Although it can look acne-like, it behaves very differently,” explains Dr Hall. “There are no blackheads or whiteheads, and patients often describe burning, tightness or sensitivity rather than soreness.” Unlike acne, which is driven by excess oil and hormones, perioral dermatitis is rooted in inflammation and barrier disruption.
Around 90% of cases occur in women. “The area around the mouth is particularly vulnerable, as the skin here is thinner and exposed to repeated moisture, friction and product migration from skincare, toothpaste or topical treatments,” notes Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and founder of Klira. Once compromised, the barrier can struggle to regulate inflammation – meaning flare-ups often follow a relapsing pattern unless specific triggers are addressed. “Essentially, this is a high-friction, high-exposure zone with limited resilience,” flags Dr Hall.
Why is perioral dermatitis becoming more common?
Both experts agree that cases have risen noticeably in recent years. While part of that may be down to increased awareness and better reporting, modern skincare habits appear to play a significant role. “Over-exfoliating, stacking acids with retinoids, using stripping foaming cleansers and frequently introducing new products can destabilise the skin barrier and disrupt the microbiome,” explains Dr Hall. Once that protective system breaks down, inflammatory pathways are activated and the skin struggles to regulate itself. Perioral dermatitis rarely appears overnight; more often, it’s the result of cumulative irritation.
Dr Craythorne adds that mask-wearing during the pandemic, increasingly complex cosmetic routines and even changes in product preservatives may have contributed to the spike in cases. “It is definitely related to what we are putting onto our skin,” she says, noting that cleansers, SPFs, make-up, toothpaste and even inhaled or topical steroids can act as triggers. While topical steroids are essential for many conditions, they can worsen perioral dermatitis specifically – making careful diagnosis crucial.
Can Korean skincare help perioral dermatitis?
I’ve seen firsthand how a gentler approach can make a big difference. “When we simplify routines and focus on restoring lipids and hydration, we reinforce the skin barrier and give it the best chance to repair,” explains Dr Hall. When overloaded with actives or frequent product changes (guilty), it struggles to function properly. Stripping back to lightweight, soothing formulas can remove ongoing triggers and allow natural repair mechanisms to resume.
Many Korean formulations prioritise hydration and calming ingredients, which can suit reactive skin – so long as products are chosen carefully. “Ceramides, panthenol, centella asiatica, glycerin and hyaluronic acid can help restore skin function without overstimulating already reactive tissue,” says Dr Hall. However, both experts stress that not everything marketed as ‘gentle’ is appropriate. Fragrance, essential oils, heavy emollients and complex botanical blends can still aggravate flare-ups.
Dr Craythorne also advises keeping textures light. “Fluid or gel moisturisers are often better tolerated than heavier creams,” she explains. This is where many Korean products such as watery serums, milky toners and lightweight essences can work well, delivering hydration without suffocating the skin. Make-up and even application tools can also act as triggers if not cleaned properly, she adds. If symptoms persist despite simplifying a routine, medical treatment may still be necessary.
Do you need a 10-step routine?
In short, no. “I typically recommend reducing skincare to three essentials: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and SPF, alongside prescription treatment if needed,” says Dr Hall. While you may choose to use additional products elsewhere on the face, she advises keeping anything active or fragranced well away from the affected area. When managing perioral dermatitis, less is usually more.
Can you use tretinoin if you have perioral dermatitis?
When my first flare appeared, I initially assumed it was acne and reached for my stash of acids and peels. Unsurprisingly, that only worsened the inflammation. After seeing a dermatologist, I was diagnosed with perioral dermatitis and prescribed a short course of doxycycline alongside topical tretinoin.
“Tretinoin is an excellent treatment when used correctly, but it must be introduced slowly,” says Dr Hall. She recommends the ‘sandwich’ technique, where you apply moisturiser first, then tretinoin once or twice weekly to begin with – while avoiding additional exfoliants or actives. “Supporting the barrier with ceramides and calming ingredients is essential. Long-term results come from consistency and building tolerance, not intensity.”
Dr Craythorne adds that treatment should always be individualised. “If you’re using the correct retinoid under guidance, it can improve the situation,” she explains, noting that while retinoids are often blamed for triggering irritation, carefully prescribed formulations can form part of a wider treatment plan. In my case, I now use her Klira Special (a bespoke formula combining tretinoin with azelaic acid) alongside a pared-back, barrier-supportive routine. “Azelaic acid has strong safety and efficacy data in inflammatory skin conditions,” she notes.
What ingredients should you avoid during a flare?
During a PD flare, Dr Craythorne suggests steering clear of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and other exfoliating acids, as well as heavy occlusives such as petroleum-based balms and thick emollient creams, which can trap irritation around the mouth.
Dr Hall adds that fragrance, essential oils, alcohol-heavy formulas and physical scrubs are common culprits. Strong retinoids and topical steroids should only be used under medical supervision, as they can worsen the condition if misused. Even toothpaste can trigger flare-ups – “always brush your teeth before cleansing as this can help prevent residue lingering on sensitive skin,” she says.
My Korean skincare staples…
1. Aestura AtoBarrier 365 Cream, £26
Barrier repair is the focus here. Powered by ceramides and fatty acids, this fragrance-free cream works to strengthen the skin’s protective layer and prevent moisture loss. Despite the rich feel, it sinks in speedily without leaving behind a greasy residue. For those using prescription treatments, it works especially well as a cushioning layer to minimise irritation.
2. Dr.Althea PDRN Reju 5000 Cream, £22.30
If AtoBarrier is my night-time comfort blanket, this is the daytime alternative. Lighter and more fluid than traditional creams, this gel-cream hybrid works well during the day. Centella asiatica and panthenol help calm visible redness, while PDRN supports skin repair. It sits so well under SPF and make-up, delivering instant hydration and glow.
3. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+, £15.50
A sunscreen that’s earned its cult status. Silky in texture, this SPF 50+ glides on more like skincare than traditional sun protection – making daily application enjoyable, rather than a chore. Rice bran water, hyaluronic acid and squalane help keep skin hydrated and comfortable, which is especially important when dealing with sensitivity.
4. Aestura AtoBarrier 365 Hydro Essence, £27
Another sensitive skin saviour from Aestura, this lightweight essence is the first product I reach for after cleansing. Designed to replenish moisture and strengthen the skin’s barrier, it delivers hydration in a thinner, more fluid texture than a traditional serum. A few drops pressed into skin leaves it feeling immediately softer and calmer, creating a cushioned base for whatever follows.
5. Laneige Water Bank Gentle Cleanser, £25
Cleansing is often where irritation begins, which makes a gentle formula essential. This low pH gel transforms into a light lather on contact with water, lifting away SPF and daily grime without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped. Fragrance-free and formulated with sensitivity in mind, it respects the skin’s barrier – making it a reliable first step when managing a compromised complexion.
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