Ironic, really, that for many Brits, Jersey is synonymous with crime. Back in the 1980s, millions of us tuned in on Sunday nights to watch Jim Bergerac catch the island’s numerous ne’er-do-wells. Over 40 years on, a third series of the new Bergerac reboot has just been confirmed. Ironic, because as I explored the biggest of the Channel Islands – on my own, by bus, bike and on foot – I couldn’t have felt further from danger. Rather, I felt exhilarated, liberated, carefree.
A bygone era
In fact, with one of the lowest crime rates in the British Isles, speed limits that never exceed 40mph and an appealingly bygone vibe, small, idyllic Jersey – just nine miles by five – is very safe. It also feels abroad – and yet not. Less than 15 miles from France and once part of Normandy, there are Gallic influences aplenty, from the moules marinière on the menus to road signs in local Jèrriais, a language related to Norman French. But as a self-governing Crown Dependency, it’s decidedly British too, with its Victorian seaside resorts and enduring one-pound notes. And everyone speaks English, of course. All this makes it ideal for a woman looking to travel solo, and a little adventurously, for the first time.
© Getty ImagesEasy peasy
My own adventure began by overnight ferry; I docked at capital St Helier, refreshed after a night’s sleep in my cosy cabin, ready to explore. I didn’t have a car – no need. Buses run to almost all corners of the island, ‘green lanes’ – where cyclists and pedestrians have priority – wriggle everywhere, and a signposted 48-mile Tidal Trail walking route wraps around Jersey’s edges. This combination left me feeling confident that, with a map, a timetable and a sense of curiosity, I could explore alone, under my own steam.
And who wouldn’t want to? Did I mention that Jersey is spectacular? Bathed in blazing sunshine, I hiked sections of the Tidal Trail anticlockwise round this fabulous island’s fluxing shores. Over the course of four days, I strolled beaches made enormous by some of the world’s biggest tides, sauntered handsome promenades, passed Napoleonic forts, visited a medieval castle and moved into Nazi bunkers left over from occupation during the Second World War. I also followed sea-breezy paths atop 600-million-year-old cliffs, where it was just me, the wildflowers and the gulls.
Each night I stayed at a different, delightful place. At the end of my first day’s walk, that was Château la Chaire, an elegant 19th-century country house tucked into the leafy Rozel Valley. I was welcomed – as all guests are – with a glass of port, which I sipped on my balcony before heading to the hotel’s sister pub. Eating alone is always the most awkward part of solo travel, but the atmosphere was relaxed, and I was happy enough with my book (The Guernsey Literary & Potato Peel Pie Society, naturally) and some succulent local scallops.
You’re in charge
The Tidal Trail was fairly easy-going and simple to follow: largely, keep the sea on your right. And the best thing about being alone was being in charge, never having to compromise. I stopped whenever I liked. Sometimes, that was at quiet beaches for mid-walk swims; the water was such a dazzling Aegean-turquoise, I couldn’t resist.
Sometimes it was because something else caught my fancy. For instance, having worked up a thirst on Jersey’s rugged north shore, I decided to detour to La Mare, an estate making award-winning wines, ciders, brandy and gin. For a companionable break in my solo adventure, I joined a tour of the vineyard and distillery, finishing in the tasting room. The crisp, apple-y Saint Marie white “is perfect with Jersey scallops,” guide Katie reckoned. I wished I’d ordered it the night before.
I never once felt nervous about being alone. In fact, this idyllic island safe-space made me feel emboldened. I even took a day off walking to explore by e-bike – and I’m generally a scaredy-cat cyclist. The island has around 450 miles of country lanes, but Lakeys Bike Hire has devised self-guided routes that cover the best bits. It was just my kind of cycling: pedalling via hedge-lined backroads, fields of Jersey Royals and windswept headlands, I barely saw another vehicle.
A last luxurious treat
My final night was a real treat-to-self: a stay at Longueville Manor. Dating in parts from the 14th century, this genteel pile was commandeered by the Nazis during the Second World War. It was then bought by Sidney and Edith Lewis, who repaired the damage and opened it as a hotel in 1949. Still run by the Lewis family, Longueville is now part of Relais & Châteaux, and it’s a five-star retreat with a homely feel. I swam outside in the palm-fringed heated pool and strolled the Victorian kitchen garden before eating some of its spoils in a dining room lined with panels from Spanish shipwrecks. Well, no reason why travelling alone should mean half the style – or half the fun.
Beyond Jersey – more to explore solo
The Channel Islands are split into two Crown Dependencies: the Bailiwick of Jersey and the Bailiwick of Guernsey, the latter encompassing Guernsey (the biggest, at three miles by six), Alderney, Sark and Herm. So why stop at one island? Hopping between them all makes for a fantastic domestic adventure.
Guernsey
The high-speed ferry between Jersey and Guernsey takes an hour, docking at pretty St Peter Port. Victor Hugo wrote Les Misérables here, in Hauteville House (now a museum). Beyond the capital, Guernsey is a charmingly slow-paced place of gentle hills, sprawling sands, tight coves, quiet lanes, Martello towers and Nazi defences – Guernsey was, briefly, the planet’s most fortified spot.
Alderney
Alderney (90/20 minutes from Guernsey by ferry/flight; alderneyferryservices.co.uk, aurigny.com) is second-biggest, with 50 miles of hiking paths, seabird-raucous cliffs and cobbled capital St Anne.
© Getty ImagesSark
Dramatic, cliff-ringed Sark (one-hour from Guernsey; sarkshipping.gg) is the most curious: it was Europe’s last feudal state, run by a hereditary seigneur until becoming a democracy in 2008. Visit the lush La Seigneurie gardens and explore by bike or horse-drawn carriage – cars aren’t allowed.
Herm
Tiny Herm (20 minutes from Guernsey; traveltrident.com) is both car AND bike free. It takes a couple of hours to walk round, via white-sand beaches that rival the Caribbean.
How to book it:
An overnight sailing from Portsmouth to St Helier takes around 10.5 hours (condorferries.co.uk); faster day crossings and flights from regional airports are also available.
Longueville Manor, a proud member of Relais & Châteaux – has double rooms from £200 B&B (longuevillemanor.com). Tours at La Mare cost £22.95pp (lamarewineestate.com). E-bike hire costs £55 per day (lakeys.co.uk). For more, see Visit Jersey (jersey.com).
Sarah was a guest of Visit Jersey. All hotels and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
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