Inside the tiny English village where George and Amal Clooney have their UK bolthole

On the surface, Sonning is a sleepy little village. Set on the banks of the Thames, it’s all timber-framed houses and weeping willows draped over centuries-old brick walls. Boats pootle past on the river, cruising through the lock that’s manned by a keeper for half the year, and weary walkers trudge through on the footpath that follows the Thames on this stretch that runs between Reading and Henley. 

It’s all very unassuming and positively idyllic, which makes it the perfect place to hide two of the world’s biggest superstars: George and Amal Clooney, who have made this their UK home when they’re not jetting around the world. 

Where do the Clooneys actually live?

Their house – or mansion, rather – is set on a small island just across Sonning’s 18th-century arched bridge, in a hamlet known as Sonning Eye. Hidden from public view by thick shrubs and horse chestnut trees, it’s a glorious, Grade II-listed 17th-century escape for the couple, who, when in residence, have occasionally been seen in the local pub, The Bull Inn. 

They’re not the only local celebrities to frequent the drinking hole, either, as Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page lives just over the road and is often seen here nursing a pint, chatting to know-all barman, Ray, who has 15 years’ worth of stories about Sonning and its illustrious residents. Ask him about the mysterious artist who put a urinal and a fake Royal Mail postbox on the wall beneath the bridge – two works that were a sharp social commentary on the state of our postal service and rivers. Sonning may look all twee and traditional, but its residents are a creative bunch. 

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What is there to do in Sonning?

Right next door to the Clooneys’ home is the village’s greatest asset: the much-loved Mill Theatre. Performances here are homegrown, written and developed onsite with sets created in the workshop within the walls of this 17th-century flour mill, which also has its own excellent restaurant for pre-theatre meals. Beyond this, there’s little to entertain aside from ambling along the Thames or sipping champers in deck chairs at the local Coppa Club with its lovely lawned riverside garden.

© Lottie Gross

Walk far enough along the river, though, and you’ll reach the handsome town of Henley-on-Thames within just a few hours. This pretty market town has its own set of local luminaries – including Dame Mary Berry and actress Joanna Page – who, when hungry, can choose from lobster and steak at the intimate Shellfish Cow or Italian classics at chic Piccolino. Independent shops abound, with boutiques like Stocks or Facy selling gorgeous, handpicked womenswear, or gift shops like Vinegar Hill and Wild & Rust offering colourful homewares and fragrance products. 

© Lottie Gross

If you don’t fancy walking along the river, explore the bucolic landscape that surrounds the Thames on one of the daily sightseeing trips by Hobbs of Henley; their Edwardian boats have panoramic windows or an open top deck, offering fine views of the Chiltern Hills beyond the riverbanks. 

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A little further along the waterway from Henley lies Marlow, a small town that’s garnered fame among hungry Londoners, who schlep out here for top-notch, four-course dinners at the Michelin-starred Hand and Flowers by Tom Kerridge, or its sister restaurant, The Coach, where a la carte menus include red mullet with a fennel and cashew nut salad or chicken kievs with a wild garlic emulsion. Just a 20-minute drive from Sonning, it’s worth the trip should you find yourself in need of fine food. 

Where should I stay?

Sonning may be small but it does have a pair of excellent options for staying overnight. The Bull Inn pub has a handful of bedrooms (from £135 per night) up the creaky, steep stairs above its bar and restaurant. The rooms are cosy with the architectural quirks of a 16th-century building, and Bramley pillow spray and complimentary earplugs ensure a good night’s sleep no matter how long the locals spend in the beer garden. 

© Lottie Gross

For something a little more upscale, set right on the riverside is The Great House (home of the Coppa Club), which has small doubles with exposed brick walls and warm soft furnishings, or vast suites with private dining space and claw-foot tubs (doubles from £95 per night).